A few weeks ago I went to Morocco.
After traveling a thousand hours by bus and making pee-stops literally in the middle of nowhere we finally landed in a gorgeous city called Fes.
While wandering through only few of the thousands (actually thousands) of windy, twisty roads of the Medina, I was struck with familiarity by this market place. Obviously having never been to Africa (OMG, I was on an entirely different continent!!), it was odd to feel as though I had see this place before.
There were endless stands where locals came to sell strawberries and tomatoes and beans. There were bakers putting out piles of freshly made bread and sweets covered in sugar (the flies liked those). We all held our noses as we passed piles and piles of fish, sting rays, and crabs that were dead, and snails that were still alive. We cringed as camel and goat and lamb heads swayed and bumped into one an other on their ropes hung from shop awnings. We watched our step as stray cats weaved in and out between our feet, and as we stepped over poo and other mini-mounds of disgusting things. And the hecklers and shop owners- Oh. My. Gosh.
When you merely linger at a piece of jewelry for more than 30 seconds, someone would approach you, hounding you with questions, messing with your mind. You're not even certain you want it, but just want to know the price.
"How much is it?"
"I give you best price. Hand-made/painted/crafted/carved/woven. Real Silver/gold/leather. The best in Morocco."
"Yes, but how much is it?"
"400 Dirhams."
[Do the math in your head... 400 Dirhams... that's like 40 euros...which is around 60 bucks...]
"No, sorry. I can't pay that". You turn to walk away.
"I make you good price. How much you want to pay?"
"Ummmm...uhhh.." By this point, you still aren't even sure if you want the damn bracelet, but if it's real silver, hand made, he seems nice enough... "I can pay 15 euros. It is literally all that I have in my purse."
"WHAT? You crazy. I never see that price in my life. This is real silver. You be crazy, girl."
He snatches the bracelet from your hand and turns to walk away. Now you think you really want it. He has successfully convinced you that it truly is the last legitimate silver bracelet of its kind you will see ever again. And, on top of that, this generous man is giving you the deal of a lifetime. At a price 3 times what you would pay normally for something similar under normal circumstances.
"Ok. I can pay 30 euros. That's it."
"35?"
"30."
"Ok. Shake my hand. It's a deal."
It makes my head hurt just remembering how stressful it was to barter with those people in the Medina.
It was weird to me how attracted to the Arabic culture I was. I loved the sounds, the feel, the environment. I loved seeing written Arabic, I loved the roads, the houses, the landscape. I was mesmerized by the colors, the decorations, the architecture. Everything about it was so beautiful to me. I would love to go to other Arabic-like places and experience those cultures as well. I have also decided to learn how to read and write Arabic as well.
Our tour guide in Fes was amazing. He helped us sad-looking folk who were too nice to barter with the proper force necessary to make a good deal. He was extremely informative and I learned a lot about Moroccan and Muslim culture from him.
He also told us something really awesome that sparked a long, intense conversation between Tanner and I and also got me thinking about many big and tough stuff as well.
He was answering questions about the robe he was wearing, one that many men in the city were seen wearing as well. Then he got to talking about being Muslim, because the robes were related to Islam in a way I can't remember, and I will never forget what he said:
"Even though you have your God, and I have mine, and I might not like that you take a different path to get to him, He is still the same God. He loves everyone. Islam teaches us to love everyone that God loves. To accept everyone as brothers. We are all brothers."
Anyway, I just thought that was super awesome and I had to share.
Soooooo,
After we left Fes, we traveled another 100 million hours on the bus to get to the Sahara. We drove through snowy mountains, passed by a Switzerland-looking city, and discovered the Grand Canyon's long, lost twin.
After bumping our heads on the ceiling and holding on as though the car doors would fall off, we hopped out of the 4x4's, surprised to be in one piece and glad to be alive. We had made it to our camp. In the middle (ish) of the desert. Of the Sahara Desert. Like, with sand and stuff.
Omg.
It was literally like nothing I had ever seen in my life. I mean, who can say they looked out Westward and saw nothing but sand. Sand literally for miles. And miles. and miles ...
We arrived just in time for the sunset over the snow-capped mountains WAYYYYY in the distance. It looked like a sunset out of Lion King.
And in the morning... The sunrise.
It was like the sun just crept and crept. Obviously it was coming to make its appearance, as the sky's colors were transforming and bleeding into one an other. They were on fire, colors so vivid there was no way they could be real. The oranges and the reds were blazing. The dunes were illuminated. And still, with each long, stretched minute, the shades grew even more pronounced, even more brilliant. Finally as though bursting through an unseen barrier with extreme force, the sun's head exploded in the sky.
BOOOOOOM.
And suddenly it was day.
To this day, after other travels and seeing even more amazing things, that was one of the best experiences of my life. To witness that sunrise- just wow. It still gives me shivers to think about it.
I had woken up that morning feeling like straight up ass. I wore about 65 layers that night, but the desert's frigid night was no match to my fruitless attempts at staying warm. It was damn cold. Anyway, I woke up to a sore throat, a nose that wouldn't stop running, a fever, and a blaring headache. My sore throat faded and was later replaced by an emphysema-like cough and the worst sinus pressure of my life. I am just now finishing up this awful monstrosity of a cold. What an awful place in the world to get sick.
But, continuing on:
Then we rode on camels. We climbed a giant dune bigger than the tallest building ever.
Well, that's what it felt like trying to climb the damn thing.
I named my camel, the one with the nose ring, Doug. Then I rode a different one after we stopped, whose name was Jimi Hendrix.
Our camel guy tried to sell things. (As expected).
He had these awesome desert fossils, those nautical ones that look like the Fossil Pokemon. Anyway, he pulled one out of his bag and then was like, "Oh, wait," reached back in and unwrapped another one. He put one on top of the other and said, "They are brothers, see?" They fit together perfectly.
I didn't buy one, but it really made me smile to see that.
When we got back and after we ate lunch, the girls and I wandered around the dunes. We took corny pictures, wrote awesome things in the sand. Then a desert man approached us and offered to take pictures of us so we could all be in them together. Gladly we accepted the generous offer. Then we sat with us and told us stories about the healing properties of the desert sand. About how ungodly hot it gets there in the summer. He wrote our names in Arabic in the sand. He tied our turbans for us so we could look like "Jasmine", as requested. He wrapped us in his turban, making us beautiful dresses.
Then he realized by the sun's position that it was about to set. He all but dragged us up and down and through dunes, teaching us how to place our feet (by digging our toes in as we climbed) until finally we arrived on a very tall dune that overlooked many others. He said it was the best to see the sunset. Habib told us about his family. His wife and two kids- Fatima and he had a son whose name I can't recall at the moment. He lit us a fire and walked us back to camp.
Back at camp, a man from town came in to sell us jewelry. I had been very curious about one of the necklaces with some odd shape on it. Olivia bought one the day before, and we had found out it was the compass that the Berber people use to align with the stars in order to find their way if/when they get lost. I am currently working on trying to find more information about this symbol online.
Anyway, just to be sure of what I was about to buy, I asked the man what the symbol meant. He said, "It will help you when you are lost. This is the Berber Compass."
I bought that necklace and I wear it all the time now. It's one of those, 'I went halfway across the world to find myself, symbolism things, I found my way in Africa, blah, blah, blah.' But, I really do like what it represents, and maybe someday when I return to Morocco or to another desert where the Berbers live, one of them can teach me how to use the damn thing.
Also, I found it super cool to learn what the hand symbol seen everywhere meant. A Berber man selling us things near our camp said when you wear it, "Nothing bad will happen." It is a symbol of great protection and of good luck and fortune. I love that idea and the bracelet I got harassed into buying has the Hand of Fatima on it.
Anyway, seeing and experiencing the way that Moroccans live their daily lives in the cities, i.e. in the Medina of Fes and out in the desert as the Berbers do, was extremely eye-opening. I think every person should get a glimpse of a culture different from his/her own. To see how other people live their lives, work, make money, spend free time, raise families, etc is so interesting and it also provides insight into our own lives as well. Especially coming from place of privilege (Being white. Being part of the middle class. Being an American.). I am extremely appreciative of my life and the things I have and the opportunities I am given. I can appreciate these things more and more each time I compare them to other ways of life.
So back to what I was saying before, Morocco was a familiar place to me because it reminded me a lot of Nicaragua and the experiences I had while there. The market places, the bartering in the streets, the rich culture. And even the other, not-so-pleasant things such as the extreme poverty, the stray animals, the harsh signs of starvation and homelessness. With each scene and person I encountered, I was bombarded with memories of my time in Nicaragua and it brought a giant smile to my face. I was happy to be reminded of such an amazing part of my life and of rich experiences I have been able to be a part of. But, I also felt very lucky and very humbled, because while there, we were forced to realize how much of an advantage it is to be white. to be American. And so in Morocco, that appreciation only grew. It only became more apparent to me. And it was enhanced and made stronger.
While I want to always remember the two trips separately, it is exciting to make connections between my undertakings.
I can't wait for more of these associations to be made. I am so excited for my network of adventures to grow and grow and never stop growing.
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Americanization- Moroccan Style |
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Fes |
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He smiled for the camera :) |
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Berber Carpets. Sold for thousands of dollars. |
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No biggie- Just seeing snow on our way to the desert |
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Oh Hey, Mountains. |
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Are we in Wyoming? |
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Sunset on the first night. Wearing my awesome turban, of course |
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Last picture taken before my camera died while in the desert. Hey, girl, hey! |
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I've shared this picture before. This is the AMAZING sunrise I was gushing about. |
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I've also already shown this picture as well. Anyway, this is Jimi Hendrix. |
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One of our last stops before popping over the Strait of Gibraltar. Feeding a wild monkey. It's funny, because I had ripped off a piece of bread from my tuna sandwich. He grabbed it from my hand, sniffed it, then furiously threw it on the ground. Tough love, monkey friend. |